Oahu was the island of my birth and where I grew up.
I was there during a wonderful time in the history of the Sport of Kings that, for obvious reasons, also became my chosen lifestyle. Of all the islands of Hawaii, I’ve always thought Oahu was the best one for the waves. I started surfing in Waikiki and to this day, am still able to easily find the magic that made it such a special place in spite of all the changes and development that’s occurred since I was 10 years old. All my schooling and early years were in Honolulu and the memories of growing older alongside the growth of this bustling and lively place as it went from a sleepy town to a colorful city, are splendid.
As my surfing skills improved, during the winter season, I would spend my time on North or West shores for the big waves found there. There were times when we would drive around the entire island several times in a day looking for surf but that was when gas cost $.25/ per gallon and between Kaneohe and Haleiwa, one might see less than a handful of cars coming the other way. In surfing, I found a life I wouldn’t trade for any other and I also found a livelihood that sustained me through today.
Waikiki with Dad | 1950
Hawaii State Surf Championships with Bon Ching and Rell Sunn | David Darling | 1965
USA Championships Huntington Beach | Art Brewer | 1968
Ala Moana | Gordinho | 1969
Early Pipeline | Art Brewer | 1968
Huntington pier | Art Brewer | 1968
Who can say when it all began?
It's hard to remember anything from that long ago. Backtracking through the haze of memories is like looking for footprints in a swamp. Surfing was an easy hookup, even before I got my own surfboard. It was undeniable. Just watching it, I could see surfers were having a great time.through the haze of memories is like looking for footprints in a swamp. Surfing was an easy hookup, even before I got my own surfboard. It was undeniable. Just watching it, I could see surfers were having a great time.
Gerry, RB and Reno Abellira, aspiring yogis | David Darling | 1969
Sunset Beach, Herbie Fletcher and Barry Kanaiapuni | Jeff Divine | 1971
Gerry with the latest surfboard design | Art Brewer | 1969
Golden Breed Expression Session | Jeff Divine | 1971
B.K. the man at Sunset Beach | Steve Wilkings | 1971
Pipeline | Art Brewer | 1970
Sunset Beach | Jeff Divine | 1971
1972 | Jeff Divine
The Hang Ten Surf Contest, Sunset Beach | Jeff Divine | 1972
Inside Sunset | Jeff Divine | 1971
First cover shot, Ala Moana | John Severson | 1971
Big Pipeline | Steve Wilkings | 1972
“When in doubt, paddle out.”
I like to think that saying came out of the first adventure.
The profound simplicity of the expression has helped me many times over the years in situations other than just surfing. Somehow we all discover that surfing lessons often have a lot more to do with life than they do with surfing. When you're wondering about that step you're about to take but haven't yet, remember...
Pipeline | Steve Wilkings
Ala Moana bowl with Reno Abellira | Steve Wilkings | 1972
Pipeline | Jeff Divine | 1972
First real job, Surfline Hawaii | 1972
Summertime at Ala Moana, Herbie Titcomb, Brother Kit | Steve Wilkings | 1972
Ala Moana | Steve Wilkings | 1972
Smirnoff Contest, Waimea Bay | Steve Wilkings | 1975
1973 World Championships, Ocean Beach California | 1973
p. Merkel